05.22.06
Do it yourself: $15 Professional Camera Platform
I’ve been doing some research online because I want to start using a remote camera for some assignments. They’re really useful for putting a camera where you can’t or aren’t allowed to be or for use as a second camera angle while you’re shooting from another position. One tool that’s helpful is a camera platform, a base-plate (low to the ground or another surface) that will securely hold the camera in a pre-set position to be triggered either by hard wire or radio remote.
The reality of the situation is that the item in question is just a metal plate with tapped screw holes for attaching the camera directly or for mounting a tripod head for more flexibility. An example would be a ‘professional’ model from a company called OverXposed (overxposed.com) that sells for … you better sit down … $125!! A more appropriate name would be OverPriced.
After recovering from the laughing fit that overtook me after seeing that price, I decided to see how hard it would be and how much it would cost to fabricate this complicated piece of professional photographic equipment over the weekend. I decided to make it with two of the most common thread sizes, 1/4-20 (used for every camera tripod socket) and 3/8-16. (used for full-size Bogen/Manfrotto tripod heads)
Most of what you will need to construct your plate.
The most important material to get will be the aluminum. I acquired a 9″ x 10″ piece of 1/4-inch thick 6061 T6 aircraft aluminum from the scrap bin of a local distributor. (thank you, Tri-State Aluminum) Truthfully, as long as it’s somewhere near those dimensions, it will be fine for anything you’ll need to do with it. You don’t want to incur any cutting costs, believe me. The important part is that it’s scrap, which translates to CHEAP. All the other things can be found at any halfway decent hardware store. (I’ll list the materials and tools at the end)
STEP 1:
Use a pencil to draw lines from corner to corner on your aluminum plate to find the center. Make a dimple at the center and also approx. an inch away from the center using the center punch and hammer. This will make drilling the holes much easier.
My 9″ x 10″ piece of scrap aluminum has already had its center marked and punched in preparation for the drilling.
STEP 2:
Clamp the aluminum to the workbench and drill a 5/16″ hole in your center dimple. Drill a #7 (or 13/64″) hole in your 1″ offset dimple.
Try to keep the drill as vertical as possible when making the holes.
STEP 3:
Use the 3/8″-16 tap to cut threads in the center hole and the 1/4″-20 tap for the off-center hole. A drop of oil on the tap will help ease the procedure.
Tapping the threads
STEP 4:
Use your metal file to knock down any sharp edges or saw marks on the edges of the aluminum plate. Sand the edges to leave a smooth surface.OPTIONAL: I used a sabre saw (jig saw) with a metal cutting blade and metal files to round the corners of my plate for safety.
STEP 5:
NOTE: If you decided to purchase allen studs, you can skip this step.
Use the hacksaw to cut 9/16″ from the ends of your 1/4″-20 and 3/8″-16 bolts to use as connecting studs. TIP:Thread 2 nuts on each bolt leaving 9/16″ exposed. Thread two more nuts on after, leaving a little more than a saw blade’s thickness between pairs. (see picture) The nuts will act as a saw guide, making a straight cut much easier.
You can use two pairs of nuts as a saw guide. Cut between the pairs and the saw blade won’t jump into the threads making a crooked cut.
STEP 6:
NOTE: This step is optional. You don’t have to make it look pretty.
Clean the aluminum plate with soap and water to remove any grease or oil. Stuff some paper towel in your tapped holes or screw extra stud pieces into them to keep the paint from fouling them. Use some textured spray paint on the top and edges of your aluminum plate. (follow the directions on the can)
I’ve plugged my threads with leftover pieces of bolts before painting.
STEP 7:
After the paint dries, trace the outline of the aluminum plate on your cork gasket material and cut along the lines. Glue the cork to the bottom of the plate and screw whichever size stud (from step 5) needed into the correct hole in the plate. You can also cut a piece of cork to keep your camera/tripod head from scratching the top of your plate. That’s it.
My completed camera platform with an extra cork gasket on top.
My camera platform, with a heavy duty Bogen ball head, can easily hold a 300mm 2.8 lens/camera combination solidly.
Obviously, you can drill and tap as many threads as you wish and in whatever places on the plate. Just keep balance in mind when attaching equipment. You can also use rubber instead of cork to cushion the platform if you wish.
It’s amazing to me that anyone would pay over $100 for something as basic as an aluminum plate with some holes in it. Especially since only very basic tool skills are needed to make one yourself. (don’t be afraid of tapping threads, it’s really pretty easy - especially in aluminum) After gathering all the supplies, this took me about 3 hours to make. It would have taken much less time if I had all the tools laid out like I probably should have.
Good luck and please leave a comment if you have any questions, comments or improvements to suggest. (or even if you just found it interesting or helpful)
-Dan
MATERIALS:
Roughly 9″ x 9″ scrap aluminum sheet (preferably 6061-T6 for hardness) – $5.00
rolled cork gasket material (automotive) – $2.89
one 5″ long 1/4-20 bolt – $0.06
one 5″ long 3/8-16 bolt – $0.00 already had
four 1/4-20 nuts – $0.12
four 3/8-16 nuts – $0.14
Pliobond, GorillaGlue or similar adhesive $0.00 already had
oil – $0.00
(optional)
textured spray paint – $5.89
1/2″ long 1/4″-20 allen stud (instead of the bolt and nut)
1/2″ long 3/8″-16 allen stud (instead of the bolt and nut)
TOOLS:
drill motor – $0.00
hack saw – $0.00
#7 drill bit (or 13/64″) – $1.29
5/16″ drill bit – $0.00
clamps – $0.00
center punch – $0.00
hammer – $0.00
taps — 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 (a really cheap set will be just fine for this) – $0.00
file – $0.00
fine sand paper – $0.00
pencil – $0.00
X-acto knife – $0.00
(optional)
sabre saw with metal cutting blade – $0.00
TOTAL: $15.39 + tax
Alty Benjamin Jnr said,
June 25, 2006 at 4:08 pm
Thank you. I found the info on the page very interesting. Your platform, from all indications had a nice clean finish to it (very important). I would want mine to “look pretty”. I will certainly consider making one myself.
photodan said,
June 25, 2006 at 7:33 pm
You’re welcome! I’m glad you found it helpful. The only thing I’d suggest is to finish with a clear coat of lacquer to protect the paint from chips or even having it powder coated if you want to spend some extra cash.
Let me know how your turns out.
-Dan